Westminster Kingsway College, Soho. 22nd February 2016.
The day had gotten colder and colder. Near the end, down a tucked-away backstreet behind the Brewer Street car park, Toogood staged their first London presentation. Flight after flight of stairs lined with whitewashed brick and college-cheery lino. And then out onto across a dark, breezy expanse of roof, past a flickering fire, to a glass fronted attic. Inside, models stood spaced out against mildewed walls, in front of blown-up prints of scavenged objects. To get to them, though, you had to navigate trays of ripening bread and a small battalion of dancers. Up close, all there seemed to be were lab coats – loose, ambivalent, chalky white or dark-drab, festooned with ties and fragments of bone. In the midst of the fashion week whirl, it was a moment of still, weird seriousness.